All About Fiber

You may run across terms here that you're not familiar with, so here's a little fiber tutorial to answer some of those questions that may be popping up as you read listings! You will also find a general explanation of yarn weights and needle sizes to try to ensure you're getting just what you need for your project.

~ Fiber Terms ~

• Combed - The fibers have been combed and aligned so they run parallel and the shorter ones are removed.
  
• Carded - This method retains both the long and short hairs and somewhat aligns the fibers, but in a somewhat more jumbled fashion than when it's combed.
• Worsted yarn - Although this is a yarn weight, a true worsted yarn means that it has been spun from combed fiber, where all the fibers were parallel, to make a smooth yarn that is dense and lustrous.
  
• Woolen yarn - The opposite of worsted, this is yarn spun from carded fibers so the resulting yarn is fluffier and has some air trapped in it.
• Batt - Carded fiber that is basically a sheet of fiber, normally from a large drum carder.
• Rolags - Made from hand carded fiber. Once the fiber has been carded it's rolled off of the card to make a long tube that is then used in long draw spinning.
• Top - Fiber that has been combed and pulled into long strips. This is the type of dyed fiber that I most often have for sale here.
• Roving - A batt that has been sectioned out and drawn out into a long strand of overlapping fibers with a slight twist. This term is often used interchangeably for what is actually top, so if you're looking to spin a specific woolen or worsted type yarn make sure to see it it has been combed or carded to make sure you're getting the right fiber for the job.
• Sliver - Similar to roving, but without any twist.

~ Yarn Weight ~

First, about yarn weight. Yarns are classified by weights which help the knitter identify what projects they can be used for. When knitting, a pattern will give you a gauge with the stitches per inch, which is exactly how it sounds, how many stitches you get in an inch. So you want to have a yarn weight that will give you that gauge. For example, if I wanted to knit a pair of socks that called for 10 SPI, but I was using a bulkier weight yarn that only gave me 4, I would end up with a sock that would fit an elephant! The weight of your yarn directly affects your gauge, so it's a good thing to understand these weights!

First up is fingering weight, which is often used for socks and delicate items that have fine detail like lace knitting.

Sport and DK weights are sometimes used interchangeably, but sport is just slightly finer than DK. Both are used commonly for socks, shawls, wraps and other accessory type clothing items.

Worsted is the most popular and widely available weight, great for a variety of projects and patterns. It's about double the thickness of fingering. Heavy worsted is just slightly thicker and will work in many of the same projects.

Bulky is about twice the weight of worsted, great for quick projects. It's great for sweaters, throws, blankets, pillows and other home decor.

Super bulky is a ridiculously fast knit, you could have a project in a few hours!

There are also two weights not on this list, lace and carrying. Lace weight is hard to gauge, mainly because it is mainly used to create airy patterns full of holes. If you use lace with a smaller needle size, you'll have a tighter, very fine knit, or you could use a larger needle and have an open gorgeous piece of lace knitting. This weight is best for shawls and scarves with intricate patterns.

Carrying weight yarns are normally novelty type yarns used with a sturdier yarn, so when using one of these yarns you should gauge using that yarn.

~ Needle Sizing ~

Once you have the yarn down, you'll need to understand the other element of gauge, which is needle size. In the same way that using bulkier yarn will get you less stitches per inch, so also will using bigger needles. Many yarn labels will give you a recommendation on needle size along with the yarn weight. You'll generally see two numbers when looking at needles, a metric sizing and a US sizing. Sometimes you'll also see a Canadian and UK sizing as well. The chart to the left shows the conversion between the metric and US sizes up to 10 1/2 US.

So if you have a worsted weight yarn and are using a recommended size 7 (US) needle, you'd be knitting the gauge listed on the label, let's say 5-6 SPI. If you used that same yarn but with a smaller needle, your stitches would become more dense and closer together, resulting in a higher SPI count, like 7-8. If you used that yarn with a larger needle, your SPI drops as the stitches become looser and farther apart, perhaps a 3-4 SPI count. On the other hand, using a finer weight yarn with that size 7 will drop your SPI, resulting in a very loose pattern, while using a bulkier weight would up the SPI, giving you a very tight and dense knit. It's important to understand how needle size and yarn weight work together to get just the right gauge for a project.

~ Wool ~

This is the big one in the fiber world. Wool is without a doubt the most popular fiber, and there are some great reasons for this! Wool is a natural fiber that breathes, making for comfortable clothing year round, and is durable, meaning that sweater that took you months to knit will last! Here in our little corner on HC, cloth diapering mamas appreciate these reasons more than most. Why?

·Breathability. Wool is a natural fiber, so it allows air to circulate over an area that stays wet much of the time. This means less chance of diaper rashes and a higher level of comfort for your baby. This is why wool makes such a great night time cover; when your child is in a diaper for eight or so hours, a little air circulation makes a huge difference.

·Versatility. I know you might be thinking that wool might be great in the winter, but would have to be shelved for summer. Think again! Because it breathes, wool keeps baby cool in the summer, but maintains heat in the winter. A nice, snug soaker in the summer and a pair of plush, soft longies in winter will be all your baby ever needs. As a bonus, wool covers are so cute; they can be used without any bottoms at all! Just add a t-shirt and you’ve got a fashion statement no department store line can match.

·Absorbency. This is the most important aspect in diapering. Wool has the ability to hold up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet to the touch. Why? A naturally occurring substance in a sheep’s skin, called lanolin. Lanolin left in the wool makes the fibers themselves waterproof, meaning they don’t actually absorb the moisture, but instead trap it and hold it. The wetness is locked in, away from baby’s skin, but contained in a way that doesn’t leave the cover wet to the touch.

·Long wear. Unlike PUL covers, which must be washed with every use, wool can go up to two weeks between washings! The same properties that keep it absorbent and breathable also keep stink out, meaning multiple wears from one wash cycle. When it does finally start to smell, you’ll know it’s time for a wash. Got a sink, some baby shampoo, and fifteen minutes? Then you have time to wash your cover! It will take you less time to wash a piece of wool than it will to load your dishwasher.

·Fun. Whether a knitted yarn or a soft interlock, wool is easily the most adorable option in diapering, easily customizable, with infinite possibilities. You can find soakers, shorts (shorties), even pants (longies)!